‘We’ve become a part of the pack’ Houston whispered as we kneeled on the gravel road gradually inching our way closer to the pack of wild dogs. Noses twitching, the dogs inquisitively investigated the four bodies staring back at them. Moments later, much to our dismay the game vehicle arrived, scaring off the wild dogs; however loaded with our well deserved Windhoek. Still riding the high that comes with finishing the Olifants Backpack Trail, we quenched our thirst with the frosty cold beer – the first taste of something other than water in days.
Where it all began
To ease into our overlanding journey, we chose to drive up through the Kruger National Park, all the while taking in the game that has made the park world renowned. Spending three weeks here allowed us to work out any kinks with our equipment before crossing into the lesser known terrain of Mozambique. Luckily we did, as with every second hand vehicle comes ‘personality quarks’ and we had to make use of the local mechanics a few times. Thank you Ford Phalabora! More importantly, we could not wait to kickstart the trip with a much awaited hike through the park -spotting some of the local residents on foot rather than from the vehicle.
We chose the Olifants Backpack Trail for it’s moderate level of difficulty – we always like a challenge. Over the course of 3 nights and 4 days we walked approximately 42km along the river carrying everything from our tents and sleeping bags to our cooking fuel and food.
Zero Waste Trail Food
As you can imagine meal planning was the greatest challenge prior to the hike, especially with our efforts to travel as ‘zero-waste’ as possible. The backpacking trails in the Park have a ‘leave no trace ethic’ which of course we try to follow everywhere we go. However planning meals without any packaging while also not having access to a proper kitchen to make everything before hand isn’t easy. While we brainstormed ideas for ‘trail food’, we quickly noticed how items available at hiking stores and in the supermarkets entail a ton of single-use packaging. While we couldn’t avoid everything we chose items that came in at least tin or cardboard boxes that were widely recycled. Also, purchasing items in larger quantities that we knew we would use throughout our whole trip helped us keep packaging to a minimum. For the hike, we were able to ration out the quantities we needed into reusable containers. While this meant a lot of the space in our packs was taken up by reusable containers, it was a price we were willing to pay and when all was said and done, we were very pleased with our first attempt at a zero-waste multi-day hike meal plan.
Keeping Hydrated
One of our most prized possessions is our 12L LifeStraw Mission. With overlanding in this part of the world water is certainly a prized commodity. With the LifeStraw Mission we are able to filter any fresh water source while being assured that any parasites, viruses and small impurities will be left behind. The best part – we hopefully will not need to purchase any single-use bottles of water. We gave the Mission an initiation of fire on the Olifants Trail, taking the water straight from the stream to keep us hydrated for the 4 days. The first time we pulled it out to collect the river water, in the back of our minds we also were hoping that it lived up to its name and didn’t have us heading for the make-shift toilet behind the bushes in the morning. To this day we have yet to experience any water-borne illnesses and are even able to help share the benefits with fellow travellers or community members when our paths cross.
Day 1
With our gear packed and loaded we set off on the trail, walking through thick mopani bush before stumbling out onto the river bank. From the rubbing trees to regular animal droppings, signs were everywhere that the bush was teeming with life. With tracks from hippos and elephant as well as the occasional leopard and lion our first day of 10 kms on foot wet our appetite of what was to come.
Around the campfire that evening, after our couscous had settled in our stomachs our guides went through the safety precautions for the evening – incase there were any visitors to camp. Do not sit up and look outside the tent; Do not turn on your flashlight; do not make any noise the Rangers instructed. Having seen plenty of elephant, the occasional lion and hippo already (the most likely visitors), all I could think of as I tsettled into the tent – there is absolutely no way this thin dome of nylon would withstand the paw of a lion or the foot of a hippo. A little fearful and also hoping for a little excitement I cuddled up to Rob, as if he would be any stronger than the tent when it came to a face-off with these majestic creatures.
Day 2
With the sun’s first rays, we pulled our newly broken-in joints and achy backs out of the tent for a quick bush coffee and cup of granola before setting off for day two. Considering we had been sitting in the car for nearly two weeks driving through the park and eating our weight in rusks, we were in pretty good shape. As we meandered down the river, families of hippos would launch themselves off the banks into the river, peering at us as we cautiously walked by. By far one of my favourite sounds from the bush is that of a hippopotamus. Its deep, groan-like laugh is something I never tire of. Occasionally, to show its strength and remind us whose territory we were in, one of them would raise out of the river on its staunch legs laughing at us as we quickly shuffled single file down the river. While we walked, our rangers’ acute awareness of the bush was not only impressive but comforting- luckily always pointing out the loan buffaloes, dagger boys, before they decided to make a charge. As we closed in on nearly 12kms, we arrived at camp- making a quick dash for the river to rinse off the sweat of the day. As we sat around the fire, we were serenaded by the calls of lions. The low groan like call went late into evening long after we went to sleep. And even as we awoke the following morning.
Day 3
With the calls of the lions teasing us, we packed up our tents as quickly as we could and decided to track the lions. With our eyes glued to the ground, we could see the enormous paw prints left behind by two males, supposedly brothers that were just moments ahead of us on the river bank. After an hour or so, Rob swiftly pointed ahead of us – two males were walking up the bank into the forest. Quickly cutting into the forest we began briskly walking in their direction to hopefully get a closer look at these two felines. With the wind not working in our favour, the two males caught onto our scent and disappeared into the thick bush. However we were not left disappointed as the two males lead us to the tracks of another resident pride. The sand still warm with the shapes of the lions that had just laid there earlier the same morning. From the paws to the outlines of tails, there was a range of sizes, all not too far away. A moment later, we were stopped dead in our tracks as a male growled, informing us that we had wandered into his territory. Houston and H.J. suspected that on one side was the pride with cubs, and further a-bush a mating pair. Since both could lead to some pretty charged confrontations we quietly wove our way through the trees to keep a safe distance however our hearts still pumping with adrenaline as we trotted onwards. After the rush of tracking the lions we found a crevice in the riverbed to rest.
And so this is life on the trail – walking, often in silence so as to remain aware of the sounds the bush. We were incredibly lucky to be only four on our hike; as a result our encounters were that much more intimate. Being on foot in such close range to the plethora of creatures in the African bush is an entirely different ball game. Without the safety of the vehicle, you have only the rangers and your own animal instincts to rely on should you ever wander too close.
Day 4
After watching the pack of wild dogs just an arms throw away first thing on the morning of day 4 , we were left wanting more of the bush as our trail experience came to a close. Despite a tiring fews days, we were almost hoping our lift might forget to fetch us. The key to the bush is undoubtedly to spend time in the bush. Unfortunately as with many safari holidays, it is a quick fly in and fly out experience with an emphasis on seeing the big five. However there is so much more to the African Bush than the big five; to truly appreciate this incredible ecosystem, we should all strive to travel a little slower. Not only will you likely see more, but will garner a deeper relationship with and appreciation for the place you visit. One of the highlights from the hike was in fact seeing the renowned dung beetle round out a pile of dung, pushing it with its hind legs along the river. Had we not been on foot, these incredible and vital members of the bush would most likely have been overlooked. Being on foot, we add an entirely new dimension to our experience and understanding of the bush that is second to none.
Slow travel isn’t always easy or convenient but is certainly a more rewarding and sustainable way to explore our planet. Feeling thankful for our ability to travel slow and choose these types of experiences, we drove back to the gated camp where Pumba and Timone spent the few days resting. While washing down the cold Windhoek, we both reviled in our 42 kilometre long accomplishment; eager to return to the park and embark on another trail.
